By Bill Burk
Go to the top of Findlay Lake on the farthest western border of Chautauqua County, locals will recognize the destination, they know this place. Drive south past the small bucolic lake, it’ll feel like you’re nearing the edge of civilization. Right before you get to the middle of nowhere, you’ll run into the Peek’n Peak Resort.
In the distance you’ll first see the ski slopes carved into the hillside; wide runs slotted between thick woods. As you get closer you can make out the ski lifts and condos that frame the slopes. Driving past the ski lodge and chairlifts, you climb the hills through a series of switchbacks. At the top of the small mountain, you’ll notice lush flats. This is the Peek’n Peak resort golf course.
An ad for the resort reads, “Nestled in the picturesque town of Findley Lake, New York, Peek ‘n Peak Golf Course stands as a picture of the evolution of recreational facilities in the region. The Peek ‘n Peak Golf Course is a testament to the art of golf course design. It offers a diverse range of challenges and experiences. The Upper Course winds through rolling hills and dense woodlands, requiring precision and strategic shot-making.”
The “Upper Course” is the premier golf experience in the area. It’s difficult to build a golf course where at least a few holes aren’t played side-by-side, sharing a common border between fairways, the limits of most golf courses on low flat land. At The Peek Upper every hole has a distinctive character, carved out of the hilly terrain, dirt moved, and grass mowed to isolate your experience with views of the countryside; forest, farms, and pastures squared off by country roads that stretch to the horizon. You feel like you’re the only player on the course from hole to hole.
The PGA Tour (Professional Golfers Association) came and played for several years, the course providing enough challenge and pedigree to host a Web.com event, first from 2002-2007, then for another run from 2016-2019. Popular players like Zach Johnson, Brandt Snedeker, Bill Haas, two-time Masters champion Bubba Watson, and PGA Championship winner Jason Dufner have competed right here in Findlay Lake on the championship-caliber, par-72 course. For you golf enthusiasts, the Peek Upper Course features bent-grass greens and fairways, rolling hills, deep sand bunkers, panoramic views and mature woods that offer professional playing conditions. It’s rated 4 ½ stars by Golf Digest.
Nature abhors encroachment. Golf courses are a prime example of man trying to impose a manufactured ecosphere onto an environment that wants nothing to do with order. Grass wants to grow; golf courses need it cut low. Water wants to sink and soak into low spots; golf course need it moved out of the way. Flora needs room to advance; golf courses need open space. Fauna needs to feed; golf courses need plants to remain uneaten.
While the layout and pedigree of the property will always be intact (you simply cannot recreate the hills and trees and sweeping landscape and views on most other sites), after the Web.com tour left, the course seemed to take a step back in quality. The edges frayed with minor, but noticeable neglect. Fairways weren’t mowed quite as tight, hybrid and unwelcome types of grass invaded the greens, bunkers had washout, burn-out brown spots started to show up on the course. Nature worked to reclaim the acreage.
On the course, water stations went unfilled, restrooms shut down or went un-serviced, bunker rakes and ball washers got old.
It showed in the hospitality at the course as well. Food service was limited. The on-course cart might run out of your favorite beverage. Players never really knew what to expect in the clubhouse or the kitchen. That can be the kiss of business death for a resort looking to earn five stars.
But lately the old magic is back at the Peek Upper. Course conditions have come back to the elite level, tight fairways, greens are plush and fair. Rough spots have been smoothed over. Tee boxes are immaculate. The pro shop restaurant-bar Woods’nWedges is open for business with fresh salads, hearty sandwiches, craft beers, and a fully stocked bar. The golf experience is once again the best in Chautauqua County.