Ellicottville: Meet the Chefs
Silver Fox Opens Season with New Faces

Carol Fisher-Linn

    Back in the days before it was “cool” to repurpose old buildings far from what the original intent of the building was, Gerry Nickolson and his son, Michael, in 1974, got an idea to convert a rugged, circa late-1800’s fur barn that they used for storage for their concrete business into a steakhouse. First off, one would wonder why take a gamble like that. You see, in 1974, the traffic on our main street was more apt to include farm trucks and folks in work pants and farm boots than fancy cars with ski racks. The pharmacy (now part of Dina’s) and Inn were regular pick up stops for the Bluebird buses that picked up travelers standing on the road with their suitcase at their sides. My children used these buses regularly, in fact. In 1974 we shopped at Biscup’s hardware, a five and dime, and the haberdashery – Northrup’s Style Shop – where we bought everything from baby bottles to men’s undergarments and ladies nylon stockings, garter belts and brassieres, from an elderly gray-haired gentleman. In 1974 we had one fairly busy season (winter). Most restaurants closed for the summer with a few places like Weishan’s, Whitmer’s and The Barn serving visitors throughout the year. It was in this environment that these two brave guys followed their hunches and opened a steakhouse. It was called The Silver Fox, not because it was an old fur barn, but because John Northrup gave Gerry Nickolson the nickname because of his silver hair – and indeed, considering the history of the building, it made perfect sense. Thus, the cozy, Victorian steakhouse was born.

    Fast forward to today, and it remains a cozy Victorian steakhouse (the only steakhouse in town) specializing in the finest cuts of meats and the best seafood available. They serve dry aged steaks which produces a more tender and flavorful steak. Their new chef, Jay Buchhardt and his sous chef, Corey Mellis are the new faces in the kitchen this season. The two have known each other for ten years and have worked together at other restaurants in the village. Jay is from Little Valley and Corey from Olean, now living in Ellicottville and they work as a four-handed unit, one playing off the other. In talking with them it is clear that they are a team, bouncing ideas off one another for new sauces (a specialty), new dishes or even the plating effects. No detail is too insignificant to provide the Silver Fox customers with the finest eating experience they can find, anywhere.

      Jay has had some chef schooling but basically, he learned from others who mentored him. He is especially grateful to Matt Snyder, with whom he had worked over twenty years, locally and in California. He says, “I learned from the best, and I am so grateful to Matt for all he taught me.” In talking to both Jay and Corey it is easy to understand how they almost think alike and they certainly have a huge enthusiasm for creating food dishes that will keep you coming back for more. Working together in kitchen with relatively close quarters, they have learned to do a kind of dance around each other, taking advantage of the smaller space to be in sync with each other. As Corey (a big guy!) says, “better a Ferrari than a bus!”

       The restaurant is now owned by Michael and his wife Sally, a schoolteacher turned bartender, hostess, scheduler as needed. Michael has always had to have been on call in the kitchen at the grill. He is happy to say that for once in fifty years, he is free of that duty with these two new trusted and talented chefs in the kitchen. He and Sally are also looking forward to a fifty-year anniversary celebration coming up this December.

   Currently, the Silver Fox is open on Wednesday, Thursday, 4:30 to 9pm and Friday and Saturday, 4:30 to 10pm. The bar opens at 4:30, and dinner is served starting at 5. An upstairs area is great for parties. Convenient parking is right out the front door at 23 Hughey Alley. For more information call 716-699-4672 or visit thesilverfoxrestaurant.com